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La Bohème

Last Act in Paris, Jan 2025

PART FOUR, Paris, Mon Amour, Jan 2025

Montmartre, capped by le Sacré Coeur

In late afternoon on a perfectly cold and dreary day, we climb steep steps to the top of historic Montmartre, home of the wondrous white basilica called le Sacré Coeur. Elbow to elbow in a crowd of shivering humans, we gaze out across the city. Before long, we leave the endless selfies behind to follow streets that wander downhill to Place Pigalle.

After catching a glimpse of the raggedy edge of the red light district, we step down into the metro. Our hopes are set on the next stop: a storied burial ground wherein lie the remains of a legend. We take the Number 2, direction Nation, to the Philippe Auguste station, exit Rue de Mont-Louis, and climb up to the street for a short walk to the southwest entrance of Cimitière Père Lachaise.

Night falls like a heavy curtain in the moss-covered cemetery. Resident crows call out and ruffle the air overhead with their wings. Long shadows shroud our feet and the web of unfamiliar paths that only moments ago clearly beckoned from every angle. Proving that God is real, we literally stumble upon the flower strewn gravesite of American rock star Jim Morrison. The caretaker ringing last call on her handbell interrupts our meditative moment. We follow the sound—the last stragglers to step out from among the tombs into the deepening twilight. It’s time to seek light and warmth close by.

In the cozy café L’Ami Justin, we raise a glass in a solemn toast to others who ventured here before us. We can’t imagine a better ending for a day in Paris.

Featured audio: Jim Morrison, “Whiskey & Mystics & Men,” Internet Archive, Lost Paris Tapes

More love stories from Paris HERE

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